文献类型：期刊文献

英文题名：Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

作者：Li, Zhiqiang[1]

机构：[1]Guangdong Ocean Univ, Dept Ocean Engn, Zhanjiang 524088, Peoples R China

年份：2016

卷号：8

期号：1

起止页码：787

外文期刊名：OPEN GEOSCIENCES

收录：SCI-EXPANDED(收录号：WOS:000394243400022)、、EI(收录号：20170703351944)、Scopus(收录号：2-s2.0-85012302347)、WOS

基金：This work was jointly funded by the National Science Foundation of China under contract 41676079 and Guangdong Ocean University Science Foundation for Young Group under contract C1212157. My thanks are expressed to Zachary J. Westfall, from the Department of Geology, University of South Florida, for his tremendous help in improving this manuscript.

语种：英文

外文关键词：beach morphodynamic; swash zone; plunging breaker; wave steepness; Canonical Correlation Analysis; wave characteristic-beach cusp; Houjiangwan beach

外文摘要：Swash zone topography rapidly responds to the surf zone waves. Understanding how sandy beaches respond to wave action is critical for beach erosion research, and plays a critical role in the design and maintenance of shore protection structures. The main objectives of this study were to detect the relationship between high-frequency beachface oscillations and surf zone wave characteristics under plunging breakers by using Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA). The study site is located in Houjiangwan Bay, eastern Guangdong. Topography data were sampled at 6 min intervals. The wave characteristic parameters were calculated by spectrum method. During the field work, the beach showed a reflective state and plunging breakers controlled the surf zone. The beach cusp topography was destructed gradually. The analysis provides 4 canonical correlation processes between the beachface variations and surf zone waves, which explained 95.28% of the overall variation in the data. The result shows wave steepness, the irregularity factor and spectral broadness factor had strong impacts on the topography. The wave steepness was the most important factor for beach pro file variations. The results of the present study indicate that data-driven statistical analysis, such as CCA, is useful for analyzing profile response to waves if there is strong correlation between the two variables (beach profiles and wave).