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Statistical model on the surface elevation of waves with breaking    

文献类型:期刊文献

英文题名:Statistical model on the surface elevation of waves with breaking

作者:Yuan YeLi[1]; Hua Feng[1]; Zhang ShuWen[1]; Han Lei[1];张书文[2];

机构:SOA, Marine Sci & Numer Modeling Lab, Qingdao 266061, Peoples R China; SOA, Inst Oceanog 1, Qingdao 266061, Peoples R China; Guangdong Ocean Univ, S China Sea Environm Inst, Zhanjiang 524088, Peoples R China

年份:2008

卷号:51

期号:5

起止页码:759

外文期刊名:Science in China, Series D: Earth Sciences

收录:SCI

语种:英文

外文关键词:first integrals for energy and vortex variations in wind drift layer; kinetic and mathematic wave breaking criterions; triple composite function of the real sea waves; normal distribution of the basic waves

外文摘要:In the surface wind drift layer with constant momentum flux, two sets of the consistent surface elevation expressions with breaking and occurrence conditions for breaking are deduced the first integrals of the energy and vortex variations and the kinetic and mathematic breaking criterions, then the expression of the surface elevation with wave breaking is established by using the Heaviside function. On the basis of the form of the sea surface elevation with wave breaking and the understanding of small slope sea waves, a triple composite function of real sea waves is presented including the functions for the breaking, weak-nonlinear and basic waves. The expression of the triple composite function and the normal distribution of basic waves are the expected theoretical model for surface elevation statistics.

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