文献类型：期刊文献

英文题名：Evolution of irregular wave shape over a fringing reef flat

作者：Chen, Hongzhou[1,2];Jiang, Dahuang[3];Tang, Xiaocheng[1,2];Mao, Hongfei[2,4]

机构：[1]Northeast Elect Power Univ, Sch Civil Engn & Architecture, Jilin 132012, Jilin, Peoples R China;[2]Dalian Univ Technol, State Key Lab Coastal & Offshore Engn, Dalian 116024, Peoples R China;[3]Zhejiang Dayangbihai Engn Planning & Design Co Lt, Hangzhou 310012, Zhejiang, Peoples R China;[4]Guangdong Ocean Univ, Coll Ocean Engn, Zhanjiang 524088, Peoples R China

年份：2019

卷号：192

外文期刊名：OCEAN ENGINEERING

收录：SCI-EXPANDED(收录号：WOS:000501655100008)、、EI(收录号：20194207549735)、Scopus(收录号：2-s2.0-85073188227)、WOS

基金：This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 51809039), the open fund of State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering (Grant Nos. LP1702 and LP1718) and the Science Foundation from the Education Department of China Jilin Province (Grant Nos. JJKH20180452KJ and JJKH20180451KJ).

语种：英文

外文关键词：Wave shape; Fringing reefs; FUNWAVE 2.0 model; Nonlinear wave interaction; Parameterization; Infragravity waves

外文摘要：The main objective of this paper was to examine the influence of forereef bottom slope and the effects of coral degradation on the transformation of wave shapes over a fringing reef flat. Based on verification from a physical experiment, the numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0, based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations, was employed to simulate irregular waves propagating over fringing reefs of different topographies. Empirical formulae relating wave skewness and asymmetry to local Ursell numbers were extended to three dimensions, including the effect of forereef slope and roughness of reef surface. Results demonstrated that the gentle forereef slope will lead to a larger wave asymmetry on a reef flat. Otherwise, wave asymmetry on a smooth reef bed was slightly larger than that on a rough bed, indicating that coral degradation may increase wave asymmetry over the reef flat. It was found that the different evolution of wave asymmetry on the reef flat could be primarily attributed to the different infragravity wave motions, which were induced by different forereef bottom slopes. Moreover, coral degradation would increase the asymmetry of infragravity waves, leading to some differences in wave asymmetry on the reef flat. However, wave skewness from different types of fringing reefs was almost identical, implying that the aforementioned factors have a negligible effect on wave skewness.