文献类型：期刊文献

中文题名：徐闻青安湾海滩冲流带对台风“韦帕”的波动响应特征

英文题名：Wave Motion Response Characteristics of Swash Zone to Typhoon Wipha at Qing’an Bay in Xuwen,Guangdong Province,China

作者：曾春华[1,3];胡泰桓[2];张会领[1];李志强[2];李高聪[2];田艳[1]

机构：[1]广东海洋大学海洋工程学院,广东湛江524088;[2]广东海洋大学电子与信息工程学院,广东湛江524088;[3]河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏南京210098

年份：2021

卷号：41

期号：5

起止页码：74

中文期刊名：广东海洋大学学报

外文期刊名：Journal of Guangdong Ocean University

收录：CSTPCD、、北大核心、北大核心2020

基金：国家自然科学基金项目(41676079,42176167);广东海洋大学创新强校项目(Q18307、230419102);湛江市非资助科技攻关专题(2020B01435)。

语种：中文

中文关键词：青安湾;冲流带;台风“韦帕”;复经验正交函数法(CEOF)

外文关键词：Qing’an bay;swash zone;typhoon Wipha;complex empirical orthogonal function(CEOF)

中文摘要：【目的】探讨青安湾海滩冲流带对台风“韦帕”波动响应特征的主要模态及其波浪分量驱动因子。【方法】于2019年8月1日11时39分至13时33分台风“韦帕”期间在徐闻青安湾海滩现场采集95组冲流带剖面地形数据和同步碎波带波浪数据。采用复经验正交函数方法(CEOF)分解冲流带滩面波动的主要模态,利用快速傅立叶变换(FFT)和连续小波变换方法分析波浪内部结构及其时频分布。【结果与结论】所采集波浪由近长重力波(0.01~0.04 Hz)、远长重力波(0.004~0.010 Hz)和重力波(>0.04 Hz)三大波浪分量组成,近长重力波比重最大,重力波第二,远长重力波第三。冲流带的滩面不同位置响应变化趋势迥异,可由累积方差为96.4%前四个模态完整表征。第一模态解释了56.3%的滩面变化,由近长重力波主导。第二模态方差占比19.0%,由重力波控制。第三模态方差占比13.1%,由远长重力波控制。第四模态方差占比8.0%,关键波分量是重力波。近长重力波主导冲流带的响应趋势,近长重力波、重力波和远长重力波分量耦合强度及分布的随机性导致了冲流带滩面复杂的变化。

外文摘要：【Objective】The major modes and the wave component driven factors in wave motion response characteristics of the Qing'an Bay beach swash zone to the typhoon Wipha were discussed in this paper.【Method】A series of measurements was conducted at Qing’an Bay beach in Xuwen County,Guangdong Province,China,during typhoon Wipha's visit from 11:39 am to 13:33 pm in August 1,2019.There were 95 groups of profile topographic data of swash zone and synchronous hydrodynamics data of surf zone were collected in situ for study during the typhoon period.The main modes of the swash zone topography fluctuation were decomposed by using the method of complex empirical orthogonal function(CEOF).The internal structure and the time-frequency distribution of waves were analyzed by Fast Fourier transform(FFT)and the wavelet transform technique.【Result and Conclusion】The typhoon waves mainly consisted of three wave components,near infragravity frequencies(0.01-0.04 Hz),far infragravity frequencies(0.004-0.01 Hz)and the gravity wave frequencies(>0.04 Hz).The near infragravity frequencies had the largest proportion,followed by the gravity wave frequencies,and the far infragravity frequencies was the least.The response variation trends of different positions of the swash zone beach surface were totally different,which could be fully characterized by the first four modes with a cumulative variance of 96.4%.The first mode illustrated 56.3%of the beach face variations,which was dominated by near infragravity frequencies.The second mode expressed another 19.0%variations that was controlled by the gravity wave frequencies.The third mode variance accounted for 13.1%that was controlled by far infragravity frequencies.The proportion of the fourth mode variance was 8.0%,of which the key wave components were the gravity wave frequencies.It is concluded that the response trend of the swash zone was dominated by the near infragravity type,and the coupling strength and distribution randomness of these three wave components resulted in the complex nonlinear variations of the swash zone topography.