文献类型：期刊文献

英文题名：Predicting the breaking onset of wave groups in finite water depths based on the Hilbert-Huang transform method

作者：He, Yanli[1,2];Ma, Yuxiang[2];Mao, Hongfei[1,2];Dong, Guohai[2];Ma, Xiaozhou[2]

机构：[1]Guangdong Ocean Univ, Coll Ocean Engn, Zhanjiang 524088, Peoples R China;[2]Dalian Univ Technol, State Key Lab Coastal & Offshore Engn, Dalian 116024, Peoples R China

年份：2022

卷号：247

外文期刊名：OCEAN ENGINEERING

收录：SCI-EXPANDED(收录号：WOS:000783621300005)、、EI(收录号：20220611611093)、Scopus(收录号：2-s2.0-85124237104)、WOS

基金：Acknowledgments This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China [grant numbers 52001071] ; the Doctor Initiate Projects of Guangdong Ocean University [grant number 120602-R20069] ; the Ocean Youth Talent Project of Zhanjiang Science and Technology Bureau [grant number 300702-A21472] ; the Special fund competition allocation project of Guangdong Science and Technology Department [grant number 2021A05227] ; and the Youth Innovative Talent Project of the Guangdong Education Bureau [grant number 2019KQNCX045] .

语种：英文

外文关键词：Wave breaking; Extreme wave; Intra-wave frequency modulation; Wave nonlinearity

外文摘要：This experimental study focuses on the nonlinear characteristics and breaking onset of extreme waves. The critical value of the first-order instantaneous frequency f1 obtained by the Hilbert-Huang transform method is proposed to determine the wave breaking onset. Specifically, when the normalized instantaneous frequency f(1)/f(p) >= 2 (f(p) denotes the dominant frequency), the wave breaks; otherwise, it is less likely to break. For the wave groups considered in this study, the normalized maximum crest height shows an exponential growth as the normalized instantaneous frequency increases. Moreover, it was found that there is a close logarithmic growth relationship between the normalized instantaneous frequency and the local wave steepness. Thus, the instantaneous frequency can be an effective indicator for evaluating extreme wave nonlinearity.